All dairy-producing countries are vulnerable to the climate catastrophes that are squeezing France’s butter supply. In recent weeks, supermarket shelves in parts of France have been bereft of the butter that sustains French cooking and baking, not to mention the quintessential Gallic pleasure of a baguette au beurre. Empty food shelves are a pitiable sight anywhere, but a butter shortage shakes the foundation of France’s cultural identity.
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