Yoshitaka Takahashi’s hands are shaking as he scores and cleans the skin of the fish in front of him. The tension rises again when his knife reaches the liver. The slightest mistake in removing the highly toxic organ could end in an agonising death for anyone who eats his fish. Twenty minutes later, the chef has successfully prepared a whole fugu – or puffer fish – a Japanese delicacy whose capacity to maim and kill is dividing the country’s culinary world.
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